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Not only do the Chinese love grand mealtime gatherings, they also love to snack in between. My trels he led me to two cities renowned for their snack food, Chengdu and Xi’an. As usual with Chinese cuisine, it pays to expect the unexpected. These two cities couldn’t be more different.
I was very excited to visit Chengdu and sample some of the famous spicy foods I’d heard so much about. However the snacking scene surprised me. For anyone concerned about street food hygiene, Chengdu’s well-worn snack streets are the place for you. Located in the modernized tourist areas of Jinli Ancient Street and Kuanzhai Alley, everything’s very art and ordered, with clean work stations behind glass frontages. However, what was provided in terms of sanitation costs something in atmosphere. There was little customer-vendor interaction and the streets, though busy, were oddly quiet for a central eating place in an overcrowded metropolis. With few enticing aromas or offerings of free samples, it’s hard to get in the mood.
A little digging, however, turned up some unmissable flors. I ordered a bowl of dandan noodles and was very confused when handed a dish that was seemingly sauce-free. A glance around showed me how it was done – I was meant to mix the sauce, lurking in the base of the bowl, into the noodles by myself. When I did, the combined flor of ground pork, vinegar, crushed peanuts, chili flakes, soy sauce, sugar and salt was good enough to warrant another bowl！ But I still cred a more down-to-earth, grimy dining experience, and I had a feeling I knew where to get one.
The area around Chengdu’s Wenshu Monastery is host to a more authentic snacking vibe, with open-air stalls and plenty of noise and ells wafting through the air to whet the appetite. The customary tourist-baiting array of insects on sticks was on display （I declined）, but a nearby stall groaned beneath towers of bamboo steamers laden with homemade vegetarian dumplings. On the stall next door were large blue-and-white ceramic bowls, Sichuanese snacks spilling over the rims； crispy, deep-fried broad beans, peanuts in chili oil and chili peppers stuffed with sesame seeds, delivering the best bang for my chili buck so far.
But what about dessert? In Chengdu, the making of the sweet san dapao is as much about spectacle as snacking. These balls of sticky rice are served three at a time after being tossed in the air by a dexterous jugglerchef and coated in candied yellow bean powder. Bells are attached to the cook’s basket, mimicking the sound of a dapao, big cannon！ They come with a drizzle of light molasses syrup for an additional sugar hit.
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